An unforgettable Onam

 

The first thing I said when Ravi was planning a Srinagar trip was “I am not coming”. Kashmir was not an attractive place for me personally, previous terrorism stories being in the back of my mind. Anyway when everything was arranged through saini tours & travels I agreed to go. Glad today that I did. Otherwise I would have had a heart attack in Kerala thinking of the Kashmir flood.

Ravi, myself, Dr Udayabhaskaran and family left for Nedumbassery on the 3^rd evening. Hari, Udayans son was caught in road block while coming from Coimbatore and arrived late. Was it a bad Omen? Early morning caught Indigo flight to Delhi. From there another flight to Srinagar. Met some senior Nurse colleagues from Kerala who were going for a meeting. We had almost reached the city when we heard some passengers from behind saying there was flood in Jammu. Not knowing the proximity, we were not worried about Srinagar. There was raining in Srinagar, not heavy as in kerala. Any way since our taxi was ready we reached hotel Snow palace. After resting for some time went for a short trip around the city. Saw to Dal lake and many house boats. Took some snaps. Since the tourist spots  Gulmarg and Pahalgav were not accessible due to water on the way we were wondering what to do. Next day got the news that road to sonamarg was open. Sind river flowing along was a beautiful sight. Sonamarg was a beautiful valley with hills all around. Locals with horses were behind us for a trip. We did not go as the horses were not quite clean. We walked a bit ,did some shopping we went to a hotel for lunch. After lunch we returned to hotel.

Next day ( 6^th)  too went for local sight seeing. Did some shopping. Started planning to return as further sight seeing is not possible due to rain. Arranged the return tickets and was to leave by 10 am next morning. That night there was quite a din outside, but we thought some new tourist were checking in making all the noise. Next day UB was up saying the water level was rising. On looking outside there was a slow trickle of water in to the hotel courtyard. Nothing to worry the hotel folks said. They were actually moving their commodities to the upper floor the previous night when an announcement came saying that Jhelum river is overflowing. It seems UB approached them asking whether evacuation is needed. But they said that moving commodities is just a precaution and nothing to worry. The trickle rose to cover the ground floor in a couple of hours. We phoned our driver but he could not come. Water was again rising covering 3/4^th of the first floor. We appeared safe on the 4^th floor.( We had already shifted from the first floor. But how long? Did n’t know whether the base of the building is safe or not. Electricity and phone connections were out. Since the hotel people had filled the tanks there was water in the rooms. Nobody was interested in food. My gastritis was creating problems. Anyway decided to go to the make shift kitchen in the hall. Provisions were there in plenty. Made some tea. Prepared ghee rice and boiled eggs at about 4 pm. That was our Onam meal.

A couple of rubber boats came and went. There was water inside the boat. We didn’t go as rawers appeared tough- also they were only taking women and children. We don’t know what the situation outside is. Meanwhile helicopters were coming and picking up people with out luggage. We learnt the way they were lifting people in case need arose. The hotel people broke the false ceiling to see if we could stand on the roof to attract helicopter. But it was in vain as it was not easy to stand on the slanting roof.

All of us slept in one room as there was the possibility of looting. Second night during early hours of morning at around 2 am got some mobile network coverage in Ravi’s mobile and arranged to call brother and daughter so that at least the anxiety over there can be minimized. He also called the MP and CM to appraise the situation. Next day on 8^th some Gujaratis and myself made some rice and green gram curry. There was some excess rice which we took for evening meal mixing with atta, left over green gram and onion made special puri and potato curry. Joining the general pool also reduced our tension.

Meanwhile as in all places there were some selfish persons. A fat man who was always hungry took away packets of milk to his room and would boil and drink. Later when requested he brought back some to general group. I had some cornflakes with out milk and returned the packet. That too went missing. There were many eggs, and that too went to the top floor where the hotel staffs were cooking separately. As a precaution I took off some noodle packets to our room, so that we could use it in the general pool.

The next day morning the owner’s relatives who were with us escaped in a boat. They were creating more tension for us continuously. Their old father remained in the hotel. That evening a rubber boat arrived looked like a military boat saying it would take women and children. The muslim amongst us Mrs Shehala and daughter plus an old man went over. After they went we were frightened whether they would be taken else where. Her husband and son too were there. Till Shehala returned next morning in another boat the next day we were worried. Sleep was less these days. After Shehala and family left we decided to go out in the next boat. Ladies first, that also created tension. Shehala was saying that they had stayed on a bridge with thousand others, in the bitter cold the previous night. Luckily no boat arrived though we were all prepared to go. That afternoon the mass cooking session went on this time. This time rice and rajma curry. Now, one hotel boy was helping. They were angry at first as the management people had escaped. To please them we gave them the food we prepared calling them beta, beta. Finally they started helping us. The chief cook among us was Leena deedi, Veena kumari and Seema. Leena deedi had some rheumatic problem was a bit bent, but still she boosted our morale. She actually prepared suji halwa one evening. We dressed up a couple of times, but no boat came that evening.

Next day(10^th) we again packed everything and get dressed. We decided to take a hand bag, keep the rest of the luggage in the hotel as we didn’t know the destination. Finally a boat arrived with 2 boatsmen. Ratnam with sari and all fell down while in boat. So I was careful. I sat on the window sill and the boatman took me down. The boatmen were tired it seems. He had rescued about 400 people that day. Inspite of that he was caring, asking us to keep our hands inside to avoid the electricity wires and trees in the water. Our hotel people gave him some food. After one trip another man went over and brought Ravi and the children. The hotel people threw in the baggage too, so that weight also has to be borne. The boat dropped us in the road. The road was dry and we can see the Zero Bridge ahead. But we are not sure where to go. Thousands of people were walking in all directions.We could see a helicopter droping food items on the bridge. When biscuits and water bottles broke, people were throwing stones at the helicopter. Such was the hostility of locals. Our question was what further. There were none to turn to. We walked in the direction to where majority were proceeding. Some locals helped us by carrying our luggage. Most of the people were directing towards the hill top where the UN office is located. Beyond that there is another hill where the Raj bhavan is located and the helipad is adjacent to that.Some body was saying that if you can register at UNO you will be picked up by helicopter and take to either Srinagar or Ladak airport. That is the only way out.

We were all tired by walking in the sun. Luckily we met one woman returning from the UN office saying that there is absolutely no use going there. Again uncertainty!! We could see a hospital nearby. It is the Govt. hospital for chest diseases. We walked in to it. There was a single doctor there on duty since 5-6 days. He was irritable, anyway he told us to remain in the hospital. We sat for sometime in the patient waiting area. There was no patients, but a young couple with 2 children have taken shelter there. We were planning to put the benches together for a night’s sleep. There was no food, therefore we bought some kurkura and apple juice. Most of the shops were closed.

While waiting in despair we met few sisters from kerala. They were with us in the flight from delhi to srinagar.They had actually came there 3 days back. Running from the flood site when the water level suddenly rose. Hospital people provided them a little rice and dal curry it seems, which was now almost over. There was no facility to go to toilet even. The bushes behind the hospital were the makeshift bath room, water being collected from a road side pipe. They agreed to share the seminar hall where they were staying, though some north Indians in that group objected. There was a retired army officer among that group of trained nurses. She had gone to army base that morning for help. She returned in the evening saying that vehicles had been arranged to take the sisters to the army camp. They left by 6 pm and we were left alone. Again despair. That place doesn’t appear quite safe. The local people were objecting to special attention given to tourists. Actually after the sisters left few local people came to enquire who we are. We were tensed up and was watching what is happening outside. We could not sleep that night. Mobile phone was still not working. Early morning Ravi and Nithin went to high mountains behind the hospital hoping that mobile range may be there. They were successful and informed the paramilitary about our location. They could also inform back home that we are safe and trying to get back as early as possible. We sustained on dry fruits in our baggage and the 2 water bottles given by the sisters. Most worrying thing was the insecurity in that hostile environment. We thought that if not rescued on that day we will try to walk to airport in the early hours of next day, even though we are not sure about the distance or the condition of the road. But that was the only option available to us.

Waiting with prayers, as if from heaven, around 3 pm a group of youngsters arrived. One of them introduced himself as Asfaq from SSB. They were not in uniform. He said that they were sent by SSB commandant to rescue us. They asked how long it will take for us to be ready. We are elated and took hardly 5 minutes to pack and leave. They were 8 people and were caring and lovable. They carried our luggage and took us through roads and narrow passages and finally through chest high water. It was almost 5 km distance but never thought of the distance or the water level.They were all in mufti to disguise themselves as tourists, otherwise they feared that locals will not permit our travel. The behaviour of people on the road was also like that. We always kept silent for whatever they asked, not to provoke any body. After the long walk we boarded the army truck waiting for us. Truck was moving through water body. We could see that the whole of srinagar is in waters. All the people were out in the flood moving in different directions.We could see the Govt offices, banks etc  in water. We finally reached the residential flat of the commandant Mr Ranjith. He gave us food and shelter in that night. Arranged our tickets back to New Delhi.Next day morning after breakfast we left to airport. On the way we visited the medical camp conducted by SSB. It was a terrible scene. Thousands of patients waiting, only 3 doctors and few medicines. SSB was trying their level best provide care to every body